This is Narcissist’s new series “What’s in Your Closet?” I wanted to spark a conversation about overconsumption and inspire more creativity with the clothes you already have, styling them in ways you haven’t thought of before. Thus, “What’s in Your Closet?” was born. – Kimberly Mortensen
In early January, I met Sonnet the founder of Sacred Places while browsing around downtown looking for clothes for my next editorial. When we met, I felt an instant positive vibe from them. Then the LA fires happened, so plans changed and I had to adapt. I hit Sonnet up (who has great style and a beautifully curated wardrobe) for my newest idea, thinking they would be perfect for my first segment of “What’s in Your Closet?”
So, Narcissist asked, “Whats in your closet Sacred Places?“
I created the segment “What’s in Your Closet?” to spark a conversation about overconsumption. What advice would you give people to help them consume more consciously?
Stop impulse buying– when shopping for myself I almost solely shop online. This gives me a long time to debate an item since I can go back and look at it everyday, I also know my measurements and what silhouettes I feel best in which is necessary for shopping online.
Figure out what you actually like, this took me forever to figure out and required a lot of trial and error. Something that has helped me recently is the realization that it’s okay to like something but not buy it. I used to obsess over pieces and buy them only to realize that it didn’t work in my wardrobe. It was the piece itself I appreciated, but now I know the difference.
Invest in your clothing. I have some things I got for an amazing price & I’m definitely a deal hunter, but I do notice that when I have to save up for something I value it so much more. Using this as a method for personal shopping gives me more time to decide if the piece is something I actually want and will wear enough to justify the cost. I can then also evaluate if the quality and materials used to create the garment are worth the price, which leads to longevity within my wardrobe.
What’s the story behind Sacred Places? What inspired you to focus on vintage and archive pieces?
I always loved fashion as a child and was introduced to second hand clothing very early on through necessity. When I was 19 I left home and was really struggling to make ends meet with the job I had so I decided to start selling my old clothing and cute pieces I would thrift. A year and half after that I lost my job due to the pandemic and selling clothing supported me through quarantine. I had two jobs after that but have been fully supporting myself off of my business the past 3 years. I focus on vintage and archive because I love clothing with a history and meaning, as well as the sustainability aspect.
How would you describe your personal style philosophy, and how does it influence what you collect for online store Sacred Places?
I would say it’s based on quality, construction, and unique details. I look for pieces that are well made and have distinct character -whether through silhouettes, texture, or more obvious unconventional elements. I view my style as a way of expressing the duality that exists within me and the world whether that’s through structure paired with fluidity or minimalism combined with statement. That tension is a way for me to express my gender nonconformity beyond simply blending masculine with feminine. I apply all of this when deciding what to source for my showroom as well but try to keep it more open-ended & accessible because I dress myself in mostly neutrals, but love sourcing pieces that are playful and vibrant.
Which piece in your closet has the most meaningful story or history?
I recently inherited a black & yellow vintage bomber which belonged to my grandpa. He passed away at the beginning of this year and it’s the jacket he had been wearing the last few times I saw him. When I was around 5 or 6 he and my grandma lived with my mom for a while and he would wake me up super early on the weekends to go thrifting with him and then we would get hashbrowns. My grandparents sold collectibles on Ebay to support themselves my whole life, and he was a major collector. I definitely got that quality from my grandpa so it feels really special to have something he loved to wear.
Curation & Sustainability:
When you’re selecting pieces for your personal collection, what draws you to them?
All the things I mentioned earlier when discussing my style philosophy are what I think about when searching for something personal. I really love finding something that makes me jealous I didn’t come up with the design first. Lately I’ve had a lot of sensory issues so comfort also plays a huge role. A dream piece I’m looking for at the moment to fulfill that need is the Rick Owens silk bias cut lounge pants.
How has your approach to fashion consumption changed since working with vintage and archive pieces?
When I was a teenager I loved to shop the Urban Outfitters clearance section, but as I hit my late teens and discovered more about how clothing is made and the human/environmental impact it has, I came back to my roots of focusing on secondhand. It took years to finally figure out what works for me and I definitely feel there was a time when I was still overconsuming, even if it was all thrifted. I am extremely picky now, if it doesn’t fit my criteria I don’t need it. I’m very comfortable these days in the idea that I don’t need to follow trends, which doing so generally leads to overconsumption.
Why do you choose the designers you feature in your archive? Which new and well-known designers do you gravitate toward?
Many of the designers I feature naturally follow my style philosophy so they are a great way for me to share that with the world in another way aside from dressing myself. I’ve always been obsessed with Plein Sud, Junya Watanabe, Gaultier, Margiela, Marc Le Bihan, and A.F. Vandervorst. When it comes to new designers, there are so many amazing ones I follow online it would be hard to list them all. I don’t source from new designers for my inventory because I don’t often find their pieces second hand, but I recently got a dress from Urte Kat for my personal wardrobe that I love!
What’s your process for reimagining vintage pieces in contemporary ways?
For me, mixing eras has always been a part of that duality I love. Even when I was deep in the “true vintage era” of my life, I never strictly focused on wearing one era, I wanted to wear a striking Victorian bodice with big basketball shorts. We live in a time where anything can be a certain aesthetic or trend or so I don’t feel that there’s a need to try and make vintage contemporary, it’s contemporary because it’s being worn right now.
Editorial Vision
Which pieces in your closet do you feel are most versatile for creating different looks?
I have slowly tried to build a wardrobe that allows me to wear anything I have together. I’m not quite there yet but I have a thin knit black long sleeve shirt that’s definitely a staple, I can dress it up or down very easily, and it’s great for layering! I also, somewhat unfortunately, don’t own any practical shoes, so all of my shoes elevate any look I pair them with regardless of how casual or formal.
Are there any unexpected combinations in your closet that you’ve discovered work beautifully together?
I briefly mentioned basketball shorts earlier, they’ve been a staple for me lately and I love finding creative ways to style them. A dramatic top, layered leather belts, and some cute heels are some of my favorite things to pair with them. I believe with a strong enough vision anything can work together.
How do you balance preserving the integrity of vintage pieces while making them feel fresh and modern?
Wearing them and keeping them alive preserves their integrity, there’s no right or wrong way to incorporate vintage into your wardrobe in my opinion. Responsibly caring for & repairing old clothing is so important, and I don’t believe that the things we own have to feel fresh or modern, but if that’s what someone is going for then it’s definitely possible. It’s all about figuring out how to style things in a way that makes you feel confident & comfortable.
Industry Insights
What shifts have you observed in how people approach vintage and archive fashion?
The market has massively increased the past 5 years, I feel like there are more people than ever taking an interest in vintage & archival fashion. It has its pros & cons but if it can draw people towards consuming more mindfully and finding value in their clothing, I think it’s great.
How do you see the relationship between personal style and sustainability evolving?
I don’t think these things are mutually exclusive, but they can be. True personal style isn’t about chasing trends, which inherently can make it a more sustainable way of consuming. To me, a large part of sustainability is getting creative with what you already own, repairing, and taking care of your wardrobe. So the future of these two intertwined isn’t solely about owning less, it’s about having a deeper relationship with what we choose to wear.
Piece Highlights
How do you research the background and context of the archive pieces you collect?
I love the Vogue runway app. It’s a great resource for finding style inspiration and researching. It’s been a tool for me in discovering exactly what season something came from. Also googling a description of an item and going on a deep dive until I’ve found something. Also learning how to read labels, some designers have the year and season shown on the label in a less obvious way, like old margiela. I’ve become very good at looking at a garment and knowing at least what decade it belongs to also, so that has helped with my research.
We met up with Sonnet in downtown and we styled them from pieces from their closet, which gave us the “Girl Interrupted” editorial.
Editorial Looks Description
Can you describe each piece we used in the editorial—why you bought it and where you found it?
Look 1
Dsquared2 bondage jacket, sourced from Japan for personal collection. Ann Demeulemeester silk cargo skirt, sourced online for personal collection.
Look 2
90s blow-up boobs tee, thrifted, bought for styling. 2000s Burberry thigh-high leather boots, bought from vintage shop for personal collection. 90s Cyberdog micro mini skirt, sourced online for shop.
Look 3
90s blow-up boobs tee, thrifted, bought for styling. 2000s Burberry thigh-high leather boots, bought from vintage shop for personal collection.
Look 4
Antique chainmail helmet found at flea market, bought for styling. Leather Dsquared2 pants, sourced from Japan for shop.
Look 5
Alice Auaa straight jacket top, sourced from Japan for personal collection. 1980s Seditionaries tee, Christmas gift, for personal collection.
Look 6
Jean Paul Gaultier 90s cropped glove sweater, bought for personal collection, sourced from Japan. Girbaud chain skirt, bought for shop, sourced online. Junya Watanabe sweater skirt, sourced from Japan, bought for the shop. Lace skirt by Gil Rodriguez, bought for personal closet. 2000s Nike heel boots, found at consignment shop, bought for shop.
Look 7
Plein Sud leather vest, bought for the shop, sourced online. Junya Watanabe SS03 bondage skirt, bought for my permanent collection, found online. Haider Ackermann heels, 2nd Street, bought for personal closet.
Look 8
1920s silk dress, eBay auction, personal collection. Vivienne Tam 1997 Buddha dress, sourced online for personal collection.
Interviewer: Kimberly Mortensen
Founder of Sacred Places: Sonnet Garza
You can shop or rent from Sacred Places here.