In an era where Doja Cat serves demon realness and Sabrina Carpenter flirts with the dark side in her music video “Taste,” it’s clear: goth is having a moment. Again. With the release of “Joker 2,” “Beetlejuice 2,” and “The Crow” remake on the horizon, alongside Molchat Doma in full effect, goth culture is experiencing a powerful revival. As economic challenges loom and fashion turns edgier, the influence of this dark subculture is impossible to ignore. Let’s embark on a journey through goth’s rich history and its current resurgence, from ancient tribes to modern trends.
The Birth of Goth: More Than Just Eyeliner and Attitude
The term “goth” has roots deeper than your average kohl-rimmed eyeliner. In the 3rd century, Germanic tribes known as the Goths shook up the Roman Empire, ushering in the Medieval era. Fast forward to the 18th century, and “Gothic” became associated with those awe-inspiring cathedrals that screamed “we’re compensating for something.”
But the goth we know and love today truly began to take shape in the late 1970s. As Margaret Thatcher took the reins in Britain, miners were striking, and the mood was darker than a Bauhaus bassline. From the ashes of punk, goth emerged like a black-clad phoenix.
The Sound of Darkness: Goth Goes Global
Goth music spread faster than a vampire’s curse. Bauhaus dropped “Bela Lugosi’s Dead,” and suddenly everyone was practicing their best vampire pose. Joy Division brought the gloom, Sisters of Mercy perfected the art of sounding like they were singing from a cave, and The Cure made it okay for boys to wear lipstick.
But goth wasn’t content with just the UK. It spread across Europe, hit the States, and even made it big in Japan (hello, Visual Kei). Suddenly, you had goths from Tokyo to Toronto united by their love of black clothes and existential dread.
More Than Music: Goth as a Global Subculture
Goth evolved into more than just a sound – it became a lifestyle. Events like Whitby Goth Weekend in the UK and Wave Gotik Treffen in Germany became pilgrimages for the dark-hearted. The internet arrived, and suddenly goths could connect globally, swapping makeup tips and debating the merits of fishnets versus lace tights.
The Gothic Revival: Fashion, Music, and Beyond
In recent years, goth has stormed the runways of Milan and Paris, with seasoned and new generation of designers embracing the dark aesthetic. This revival isn’t just a passing trend; it’s a full-blown renaissance, with some of fashion’s most innovative minds leading the charge.
Luis De Javier’s provocative designs blend goth with a punk edge, creating looks that are both confrontational and alluring. Rick Owens, long hailed as the dark lord of fashion, continues to push boundaries with his avant-garde, post-apocalyptic creations. Balenciaga, under Demna Gvasalia’s direction, has infused high fashion with a distinctly gothic sensibility, often blurring the lines between luxury and subculture.
Emerging designers like Annakiki and Robert Wun are bringing fresh perspectives to goth aesthetics, with Annakiki’s futuristic interpretations and Wun’s sculptural, otherworldly designs. Jean Paul Gaultier’s gothic influences continue to resonate, while Charles de Vilmorin’s darkly romantic creations offer a modern twist on classic goth themes.
Area’s crystal-embellished garments add a glamorous edge to goth, proving that darkness can indeed sparkle. Gareth Pugh’s architectural silhouettes and monochromatic palettes have long been a staple of the goth-inspired high fashion scene. And Ty Stephano’s gender-fluid designs bring a contemporary, inclusive approach to gothic fashion.
These designers, along with models like Gabriette and Amelia Gray, are at the forefront of goth’s high fashion moment. Their work demonstrates that goth is not just alive, but evolving, adapting to contemporary aesthetics while staying true to its dark roots.
Club Sinister: Where Goth Never Died
To truly understand the enduring appeal of goth culture, we visited Club Sinister, the oldest goth club in Los Angeles. Owned by the legendary Trisha LaBelle (who also owns Boardners in Hollywood), Club Sinister has been keeping goth alive for an impressive 26 years, making it the longest-running weekly goth night in the entire country.
Stepping into Sinister is like entering a portal to another dimension. The club’s atmosphere is thick with gothic aesthetics – dim lighting, Victorian-inspired decor, and macabre art installations. The pulsing industrial beats and darkwave melodies, courtesy of world-class DJs like JPEG, Noizeth, Tommy, with appearances by Rocky and Bruce Perdew, create an immersive soundscape that makes you think you’re in the movie Blade.
But Sinister is more than just a club; it’s a community. The ever-welcoming host Kent and on-site manager Lyssa ensure that everyone feels at home in this dark paradise. Monthly birthday bashes and massive theme parties keep the energy high and the crowd coming back for more.
For those seeking to explore their darker side, the upstairs fetish loft, presided over by Master Feenix, Bella Donna, and Jakiichu, offers a safe space for experimentation and self-expression.
Voices from the Darkness
We spoke with some of Sinister’s seasoned goths to get their perspective on the subculture:
Alicia, 67, reflects on goth’s evolution: “When I was a teenager, there was no goth yet. It was glitter, glam rock, David Bowie, Lou Reed. So I was pre-goth, when I was growing up, there was no goth. I used to go to clubs. I used brown and purple lipstick, it was considered unusual back then, an occasional girl would have her hair dyed black and wear black lipstick. Then they will go to the rainbow. They would get really drunk and take Quaaludes and pass out outfront so I didn’t think that was what I wanted to be… so it took me a while to get there.” I’m pre-goth. It took me a while to get here, but now I’m home.”
Joseph, a long-time Siouxsie and the Banshees fan, emphasizes the importance of music: “Music is the driving force. But I don’t live the goth lifestyle outside of here. It’s about the music, the fashion, and the look.”
A party-goer from St. Petersburg, Russia, sees goth as revolutionary: “Always be fabulous, always be on the podium. If there are thousands of us in the spotlight, that’s good too, but if you are the one in the spotlight, then there’s a whole fucking movement.”
Elena, a younger goth, shares her journey: “My interest in this style and community took off when I was a kid. My brother listened to a lot of emo bands, and that stuff resonated with me. It wasn’t until college that I started to really experiment with my style and let go of all that bs.”
For those baby bats looking to dip their toes into the dark waters of goth, our seasoned Sinister club-goers offer some advice:
– Invest in good boots – they’re the foundation of any goth outfit.
– Don’t be afraid to show some skin (pasties in different sizes are always an option).
– Anything can be painted on – just make sure you have good mod podge to seal it in.
– Most importantly, immerse yourself in the music. Start with classics like Bauhaus and Joy Division, then explore newer bands like She Wants Revenge and Twin Tribes.
The Future is Dark (and That’s a Good Thing)
As we navigate through increasingly turbulent times, both socially and economically, it’s no surprise that our collective style is taking a turn for the darker, edgier, and more aggressive. Fashion has always been a mirror to society, and the current goth revival is no exception. In uncertain times, we often find comfort in the familiar darkness of goth aesthetics – a visual representation of our inner turmoil and resilience.
But as we learned from the devoted goths at Club Sinister, what truly makes you goth isn’t just the black clothes or the dramatic makeup – it’s the music. From the haunting melodies of Bauhaus to the industrial beats of modern darkwave, music is the lifeblood of goth culture. It’s what connects everyone, transcending age, background, and even fashion choices.
As Joseph, our long-time Siouxsie and the Banshees fan, reminded us: “Music is the driving force.” It’s what brings people together in dark clubs like Sinister, what inspires designers like Rick Owens and Luis De Javier, and what keeps the goth spirit alive in the mainstream through artists like FKA Twigs and Ethel Cain.
As we watch the likes of Sabrina Carpenter, Billie Eilish, and Doja Cat put their spin on goth aesthetics, one thing’s clear: goth isn’t just surviving, it’s thriving. It’s a cultural cockroach, adapting and evolving, but always keeping its dark heart intact. In these challenging times, goth offers not just a fashion statement, but a community, a form of expression, and a soundtrack to our lives.
Written by Kimberly Mortensen
Photography by Nico Riley