We had the pleasure to see the Vivienne Westwood Corsets from 1987 to Present Day Exhibit at their flagship store on Melrose Ave. Corset-making has been an art form, combining function with aesthetics. Historically, corsets were constructed from multiple layers of fabric—typically linen or cotton—stitched tightly together. The structure was then reinforced with boning, which was originally made from whalebone. Whalebone, derived from the baleen plates of whales, was favored for its flexibility and strength. It allowed the corset to mold the body while providing enough rigidity to support and shape the torso.
The process of inserting the boning involved creating channels in the corset’s fabric, into which the strips of whalebone were slid. These strips were shaped and cut according to the corset’s design, which varied over time from the conical Elizabethan shapes to the curvilinear Victorian styles. Attention to detail was paramount, as any irregularity in the boning could cause discomfort or distort the desired shape.
As societal views on fashion and femininity evolved, so did the materials used in corsetry. With the decline of the whaling industry and the emergence of new technologies, other materials such as steel and, later, plastics were introduced. These materials provided similar benefits but were more humane and sustainable than whalebone. Modern corsets often use steel boning, which offers durability and a strong structure for tight-lacing but can also be quite heavy.
Vivienne Westwood, a trailblazer of modern punk fashion who later embraced the history of the United Kingdom, has been instrumental in reviving the corset. Westwood’s reimagining of corsetry in the late 20th and early 21st centuries played a key role in bringing this historic garment back into fashion. She transformed the corset from an undergarment into a bold statement piece that could be worn on its own. Her designs often feature playful, avant-garde adaptations of traditional corsetry.
Westwood’s approach is less about creating an idealized body shape and more about expressing individuality and rebellion against mainstream fashion norms. She has reinvented the corset for modern women. Where women can still use a corset to cinch their figure without any discomfort or pain like they had in the past decades. She used corsets to challenge traditional notions of beauty and femininity, aligning the garment with modern movements in fashion.
The evolution of corsetry from a rigid, body-modifying garment to a symbol of fashion-forward thinking reflects broader changes in society’s approach to femininity, body image, and fashion. Vivienne Westwood’s work with corsets exemplifies this shift, showcasing how historical techniques and designs can be transformed to fit contemporary values and aesthetics. The craftsmanship of corsetry remains a testament to the intricate relationship between fashion, art, and societal norms, continually evolving while maintaining a link to its rich past.
Delicate lace corset bodice and bow train
Vivienne Westwood Bespoke collection
The material is black satin and features a dramatic oversized bow train , with an ivory tulle overlay. This piece is a new development of the seminal “corset with bow and train look”, originally seen on the runway for the Vivienne Westwood Gold Autumn-WINTER 1994/5 collection,“On Liberty” ,which featured extreme silhouettes.
The look was originally worn by supermodel Naomi Campbell on the Runway.
Sunday Corset
Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2023 Born to Rewild Collection
This sunday corset is a new design development for Spring-Summer 2023. Inspired by the sweetheart curved line of the Gigi corset from Andres Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood collection, the corset has a new softer heart shaped neckline. The corset then forms a base for a fluid softly draped triangle, which is pinched at the corners, referencing the original 90’s “Sunday” dress.
‘The drapery softens the shape, but still allows control and confidence. Structure with the unstructured, rigour against freedom-the inherent contradiction of drapery structured by this corset is quintessentially Westwood, combining two unexpected ideas to a dynamic and unique result’ —Alexander Fury
PORTRAIT CORSET
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Autumn-Winter 2022/23 ‘Wild Beauty’ Collection
It was originally referred to as the “Statue of Liberty Corset, ” Westwood examined an actual 19th century copy of an 18th century original corset pattern. Instead of drawing the waist in with whale boning, Westwood used elastic on the sides of the corset which allows more movement for modern women of today and instead of laces, it closes with a zip.
In 1994 Karl lagerfeld said that this corset was the most important fashion reinvention in decades!
Sandy Corseted Dress
La Nouvelle Eve Collection Autumn/Winter 2022/2023
The “Sandy Corseted Dress” is hand crafted in a neon pink jersey fabric, with a silhouette accentuating the waist. The piece features a sweetheart neckline and an asymmetrical draping detail down to the side of the body. The finished look has a sexy and glamourous feel.
Hailey Bieber wore a draped corseted dress in neon pink jersey from the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Autumn-Winter 2022/23 collection, to the Heroes Gala in aid of ‘Fuck Cancer’ in Santa Monica, California.
Men’s Corset
Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2020 “Rock Me Amadeus’ Collection
Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring Summer 2020 “Rock Me Amadeus’ Collection
The men’s corset was first shown in the rock me amadeus collection of Spring-Summer 2020 in an orange and white cotton, with a floral jacquard print. The collection proposed a symphony of cultural references which is seen below in the runway picture depicting the model debuting the corset on the runway.
Andrea Kronthaler wrote in the collection notes- “ Everything’s connected, things that have no connection, suddenly connect, this is inspiration, intuition, the human condition.”
Note the fact that the corsets from this collection are constructed differently, both from earlier examples and to each other.
DORIS DAY CORSET
Andrea Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood “Rock Me Amadeus Spring-Summer 2020 Collection
As Creative Director Andrea Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood pays homage to mid 20th century corsetry and has a reflection of haute couture which is something both Andreas and Vivienne have been obsessed with since the 19th century. This corset has contrasting use of jacquard and elastic is more traditional, there is more restriction on the side and lower on the bottom.
but with a deeper sweetheart neckline that is more modern.
Andreas explained in the collection notes how the corsetry provided structure for the collection – ‘Underpinning supplied by the hard shell of the coquille corset -a foundation for the flowing cloth bands of Botticelli’s Venus’
Vivienne and Andreas both love Parisian haute couture from this period, often referencing it in their designs from the early 1990s onwards. These styles refer to those originals, although they are once again exposed as outerwear’—Alexander Fury
The corset worn on the Rock Me Amadeus Spring-Summer 2020 runway.
Short- Sleeved Court Corset
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Spring-Summer 2012 “War and Peace” Collection
In her collection notes, she stated, “For some time I wanted to do oversized historical corsets. I thought I could give them a feeling of armour; worn as a jacket they should look tough- like a soldier or biker. The corsets we chose to oversize are from England of Charles II.”
These corsets are a more modern garment for a woman its worn oversize and its shape is actually a reference to court corsets of the 17th century, the type worn by the mistresses of Chales the II.theres is it’s a contrast of hardness and softness of the chemise and the armour look of this corset.
Historical Corset
Vivienne westwood Gold Label Autumn-Winter 2012/13 “London” collection
This corset references 16th century corsetry; it’s much more restrictive, the embroidery references black work, which is a form of embroidery that generally worked in black thread, originating in Tudor period England.
In the show notes,Vivienne commented,‘By engaging with human genius, I have tried to capture the past in my fashion. But we can never repeat, we are swept along by the changing times and our own experience. When we try to imitate, we find ourselves doing something new. I see fashion as a proposal, a way for people to look more wonderful’.
COURT CORSET DRESS
Vivienne Westwood Gold Label Spring-Summer 2012 ‘War & Peace’ Collection
Vivienne mentions in her collection notes, ‘The corsets we chose to oversize are from the England of Charles II; those beauties who, in their portraits, dressed themselves in the sheets and satin covers pulled from the bed’. This corset
‘It mirrors the freedom expressed in the original ‘Portrait’ corset. The corset Westwood and Kronthaler referenced here was worn well into the 18th century at the court of Versailles as high formal court clothing -and was considered cumbersome, painful and restrictive’—Alexander Fury
The New Bellini Corset
Vivienne Westwood Spring/Summer Bespoke Collection
This bridal piece has a gold thread and crystal embroidered corset, on a silk satin base with a silhouette inspired by the house’s signature deep neckline.the embroidery is a variation of the archive “Lovelace” design, which is a classic Vivienne Westwood pattern, first presented in the Spring Summer 2007 “I Am Expensive ‘ Collection. The corset is styled here with a tulle skirt from the Andreas Kronthaler for Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer Collection.
APHRODITE CORSETED DRESS
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2023 Bespoke Collection
This is a draped gown in silk chocolate brown satin chiffon, with gold crystal net, is a contemporary version of the original silver “Cocotte” bridal dress from Spring-Summer 1998 “Tied to the Mast” Collection. (which is pictured below)
It was first presented in the 2022 Bridal Collection and worn by Lupita Nyongo, at the Black Panther Premiere in Africa, Lagos, Nigeria.
A closer look at the beautiful gold crystal net.
AUDREY CORSETED DRESS
Vivienne Westwood Spring-Summer 2022 Bespoke Collection
The Audrey is an ivory silk satin column design with a sculpted corset top. The ever Iconic Vivienne Westwood broken pearls cascading in the front of the neckline.It was first shown in the couture bridal collection of 2022, evoking the golden age of the silver screen. I must say if I ever get married, I will be wearing a Vivienne Westwood gown!
ARTICLE & PHOTOGRAPHY by Kimberly Mortensen